Greetings. This is a pamphlet that I typed up from a handwritten
copy that I received a couple years ago. I've just finished typing
it in but there's still some proofreading to do. While there
are
still a few typos in here, I would like to post it to alt.drugs.
With the anon server gone, I'm hesitant to do this however. Call
me a coward or paranoid, but I just don't feel comfortable posting
something like this with with my name on it. If you could, would
you post this to alt.drugs for me? I don't want credit for it,
but
I think its a decent pamphlet worthy of posting, especially the
section on lighting. Tell them its from an anonymous source or
take credit yourself if you like, it's not important to me. Also,
let me know what you think of the file, I honestly don't know
how
valid some of this information is. When typing it in I edited
out
a couple paragraphs of truly absurd advice so I'm sort of suspect
about the rest of the file (but it sounds good at least). I also
added the editor's note at the end.
Indoor Marijuana Cultivation
Introduction:
Growing marijuana indoors is fast becoming an American
Pastime. The reasons
are varied. With the increased interest and experimentation in
house plant
cultivation, it was inevitable that people would apply their
knowledge of
plant care to growing marijuana. Many of those who occasionally
like to
light up a joint may find it difficult to locate a source or
are hesitant to
deal with a perhaps unsavory element of society in procuring
their grass.
There is, of course, the criminal aspect of buying or selling
grass; Growing
marijuana is just as illegal as buying, selling, or smoking it,
but growing
is something you can do in the privacy of your own home without
having to
deal with someone you don't know or trust. The best reason for
growing your
own is the enjoyment you will get out of watching those tiny
little seeds
you picked out of you stash sprout and become some of the most
lovely and
lush of all house plants.
Anyone Can Do It
Even if you haven't had any prior experience with growing
plants in you
home, you can have a successful crop of marijuana by following
the simple
directions in this pamphlet. If you have had problems in the
past with
marijuana cultivation, you may find the solutions in the following
chapters.
Growing a marijuana plant involves four basic steps:
1. Get the seeds. If you don't already have some, you can
ask you friends
to save you seeds out of any good grass they may come across.
You'll
find that lots of people already have a seed collection of some
sort
and are willing to part with a few prime seeds in exchange for
some of
the finished product.
2. Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a seed into moist
soil, but by
germinating the seeds first you can be sure that the seed will
indeed
produce a plant. To germinate seeds, place a group of them between
about six moist paper towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge.
Leave
the towels or sponge moist but not soaking wet. Some seeds will
germinate in 24 hours while others may take several days or even
a
week.
3. Plant the sprouts. As soon as a seed cracks open and begins
to sprout,
place it on some moist soil and sprinkle a little soil over the
top of
it.
4. Supply the plants with light. Flourescent lights are the best.
Hang the
lights with two inches of the soil and after the plants appear
above
the ground, continue to keep the lights with two inches of the
plants.
It is as easy as that. If you follow those four steps you will
grow a
marijuana plant. To ensure prime quality and the highest yield
in the
shortest time period, however, a few details are necessary.
Soil
Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds,
is the soil. Use the
best soil you can get. Scrimping on the soil doesn't pay off
in the long
run. If you use unsterilized soil you will almost certainly find
parasites
in it, probably after it is too late to transplant your marijuana.
You can
find excellent soil for sale at your local plant shop or nursery,
K-Mart,
Wal Mart, and even some grocery stores. The soil you use should
have these
properties for the best possible results:
1. It should drain well. That is, it should have some sand
in it and also
some sponge rock or pearlite.
2. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since marijuana does
not do well
in acidic soil. High acidity in soil encourages the plant to
be
predominantly male, an undesirable trait.
3. The soil should also contain humus for retaining moisture
and
nutrients.
If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use
this recipe: Mix two
parts moss with one part sand and one part pearlite or sponge
rock to each
four gallons of soil. Test your soil for ph with litmus paper
or with a soil
testing kit available at most plant stores. To raise the ph of
the soil, add
1/2 lb. lime to 1 cubic foot of soil to raise the ph one point.
If you
absolutely insist on using dirt you dug up from your driveway,
you must
sterilize it by baking it in your oven for about an hour at 250
degrees. Be
sure to moisten it thoroughly first and also prepare yourself
for a rapid
evacuation of your kitchen because that hot soil is going to
stink. Now add
to the mixture about one tablespoon of fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro)
per
gallon of soil and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip
the whole
process and spend a couple bucks on some soil.
Containers
After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come
up with some kind
of container to plant in. The container should be sterilized
as well,
especially if they have been used previously for growing other
plants. The
size of the container has a great deal to do with the rate of
growth and
overall size of the plant. You should plan on transplanting your
plant not
more than one time, since the process of transplanting can be
a shock to the
plant and it will have to undergo a recovery period in which
growth is
slowed or even stopped for a short while. The first container
you use should
be no larger than six inches in diameter and can be made of clay
or plastic.
To transplant, simply prepare the larger pot by filling it with
soil and
scooping out a little hole about the size of the smaller pot
that the plant
is in. Turn the plant upside down, pot and all, and tap the rim
of the pot
sharply on a counter or the edge of the sink. The soil and root
ball should
come out of the pot cleanly with the soil retaining the shape
of the pot and
with no disturbances to the root ball. Another method that can
bypass the
transplanting problem is using a Jiffy-Pot. Jiffy pots are made
of
compressed peat moss and can be planted right into moist soil
where they
decompose and allow the passage of the root system through their
walls. The
second container should have a volume of at least three gallons.
Marijuana
doesn't like to have its roots bound or cramped for space, so
always be sure
that the container you use will be deep enough for your plant's
root system.
It is very difficult to transplant a five-foot marijuana tree,
so plan
ahead. It is going to get bigger. The small plants should be
ready to
transplant into their permanent homes in about two weeks. Keep
a close watch
on them after the first week or so and avoid root binding at
all costs since
the plants never seem to do as well once they have been stunted
by the
cramping of their roots.
Fertilizer
Marijuana likes lots of food, but you can do damage to
the plants if you are
too zealous. Some fertilizers can burn a plant and damage its
roots if used
in to high a concentration. Most commercial soil will have enough
nutrients
in it to sustain the plant for about three weeks of growth so
you don't need
to worry about feeding your plant until the end of the third
week. The most
important thing to remember is to introduce the fertilizer concentration
to
the plant gradually. Start with a fairly diluted fertilizer solution
and
gradually increase the dosage. There are several good marijuana
fertilizers
on the commercial market, two of which are Rapid-Gro and Eco-Grow.
Rapid-Gro
has had widespread use in marijuana cultivation and is available
in most
parts of the United States. Eco-Grow is also especially good
for marijuana
since it contains an ingredient that keeps the soil from becoming
acid. Most
fertilizers cause a pH change in the soil. Adding fertilizer
to the soil
almost always results in a more acidic pH.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown
of
fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly
acidic and
eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will
stunt the plant
and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets
older its
roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To
avoid the
accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your
plant is
getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding your
plant at
the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm
water and spray
the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the
fertilizer into
their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the
soil as well
as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
Remember to increase the amount of food your plant receives
gradually.
Marijuana seems to be able to take as much fertilizer as you
want to give it
as long as it is introduced over a period of time. During the
first three
months or so, fertilize your plants every few days. As the rate
of foliage
growth slows down in the plant's preparation for blooming and
seed
production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed
down as
well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going to
harvest it
since the fertilizer will encourage foliage production and slow
down resin
production. A word here about the most organic of fertilizers:
worm
castings. As you may know, worms are raised commercially for
sale to
gardeners. The breeders put the worms in organic compost mixtures
and while
the worms are reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel
some of the
best marijuana food around. After the worms have eaten all the
organic
matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains
are then
sold as worm castings. These castings are so rich that you can
grow
marijuana in straight worm castings. This isn't really necessary
however,
and it is somewhat impractical since the castings are very expensive.
If you
can afford them you can, however, blend them in with your soil
and they will
make a very good organic fertilizer.
Light
Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the countries
in which [Image]
marijuana grows best, the sun is the source of light. The amount
of
light and the length of the growing season in these countries
results in
huge tree-like plants. In most parts of North America, however,
the sun is
not generally intense enough for long enough periods of time
to produce the
same size and quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin
America and
other tropical countries. The answer to the problem of lack of
sun,
especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season,
and other
problems is to grow indoor under simulated conditions. The rule
of thumb
seems to be the more light, the better. In one experiment we
know of, eight
eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were used over eight plants.
The plants grew
at an astonishing rate. The lights had to be raised every day.
There are
many types of artificial light and all of them do different things
to your
plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of the
frequencies of
light the plant can use, but it also emits a high percentage
of far red and
infra-red light which cause the plant to concentrate its growth
on the stem.
This results in the plant stretching toward the light bulb until
it becomes
so tall and spindly that it just weakly topples over. There are
several
brands of bulb type. One is the incandescent plant spot light
which emits
higher amounts of red and blue light than the common light bulb.
It is an
improvement, but has it drawbacks. it is hot, for example, and
cannot be
placed close to the plants. Consequently, the plant has to stretch
upwards
[Image] again and is in danger of becoming elongated and falling
over. The
red bands of light seem to encourage stem growth which is not
desirable in growing marijuana. the idea is to encourage foliage
growth for
obvious reasons. Gro-Lux lights are probably the most common
flourescent
plant lights. In our experience with them, they have proven themselves
to be
extremely effective. They range in size from one to eight feet
in length so
you can set up a growing room in a closet or a warehouse. There
are two
types of Gro-Lux lights: The standard and the wide spectrum.
They can be
used in conjunction with on another, but the wide spectrum lights
are not
sufficient on their own. The wide spectrum lights were designed
as a
supplementary light source and are cheaper than the standard
lights. Wide
spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the standard
but the
standard emit higher concentrations of red and blue bands that
the plants
need to grow. The wide spectrum lights also emit infra-red, the
effect of
which on stem growth we have already discussed. If you are planning
to grow
on a large scale, you might be interested to know that the regular
flourescent lamps and fixtures, the type that are used in commercial
lighting, work well when used along with standard Gro- Lux lights.
These
commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest
of the
flourescent lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue
light as the
Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the plants use in
foliage
growth.
Now we come to the question of intensity. Both the standard
and wide
spectrum lamps come in three intensities: regular output, high
output, and
very high output. You can grow a nice crop of plants under the
regular
output lamps and probably be quite satisfied with our results.
The
difference in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes
to grow a crop.
Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three
times the
rate at which they grow under the standard lamps. People have
been known to
get a plant that is four feet tall in two months under one of
these lights.
Under the VHO lights, one may have to raise the lights every
day which means
a growth rate of ate least two inches a day. The only drawback
is the
expense of the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps and fixtures
are almost
twice the price of the standard. If you are interested in our
opinion, they
are well worth it. Now that you have your lights up, you might
be curious
about the amount of light to give you plants per day. The maturation
date of
your plants is dependent on how much light they receive per day.
The longer
the dark period per day, the sooner the plant will bloom. Generally
speaking, the less dark per day the better during the first six
months of
the plant's life. The older the plant is before it blooms and
goes to seed,
the better the grass will be. After the plant is allowed to bloom,
its
metabolic rate is slowed so that the plant's quality does not
increase with
the age at the same rate it did before it bloomed. The idea,
then, is to let
the plant get as old as possible before allowing it to mature
so that the
potency will be a high as possible at the time of harvest. One
relatively
sure way to keep your plants from blooming until you are ready
for them is
to leave the lights on all the time. Occasionally a plant will
go ahead and
bloom anyway, but it is the exception rather than the rule. If
your plants
receive 12 hours of light per day they will probably mature in
2 to 2.5
months. If they get 16 hours of light per day they will probably
be blooming
in 3.5 to 4 months. With 18 hours of light per day, they will
flower in 4.5
to 5 months. Its a good idea to put your lights on a timer to
ensure that
the amount of light received each day remains constant. A "vacation"
timer,
normally used to make it look like you are home while you are
away, works
nicely and can be found at most hardware or discount stores.
Energy Emissions In Arbitrary Color Bands
40 Watt Flourescent Lamps
In Watts and Percent of Total Emissions
Daylight Cool White Gro-Lux GroLux WS
Light Type Band Watts % Watts % Watts % Watts %
Ultra-Violet-380 0.186 2.15 0.16 1.68 0.10 1.42 0.27 3.16
Violet 380-430 0.832 9.60 0.72 7.57 0.70 9.67 1.07 12.48
Blue 430-490 2.418 27.91 1.98 20.78 1.96 27.07 1.22 14.29
Green 490-560 2.372 27.38 2.35 24.67 1.02 14.02 1.24 14.49
Yellow 560-590 1.259 14.53 1.74 18.27 0.10 1.42 0.83 9.77
Orange 590-630 1.144 13.21 1.69 17.75 0.44 6.05 1.36 15.93
Red 630-700 0.452 6.22 0.81 8.47 2.86 39.55 1.86 21.78
Far Red 700-780 0.130 1.53 0.07 0.81 0.06 0.80 0.69 8.10
Total 8.890 100.0 9.52 100.0 7.24 100.0 8.54 100.0
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78 degrees
fahrenheit and
for the dark hours there should be about a 15 degree drop in
temperature.
The growing room should be relatively dry if possible. What you
want is a
resinous coating on the leaves and to get the plant to do this,
you must
convince it that it needs the resinous coating on its leaves
to protect
itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants
develop wide
leaves and do not produce as much resin. You must take care not
to let the
temperature in a dry room become too hot, however, since the
plant cannot
assimilate water fast enough through its roots and its foliage
will begin to
brown out.
Ventilation
Proper ventilation in your growing room is fairly important.
The more plants
you have in one room, the more important good ventilation becomes.
Plants
breathe through their leaves. The also rid themselves of poisons
through
their leaves. If proper ventilation is not maintained, the pores
of the
leaves will become clogged and the leaves will die. If there
is a free
movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves and
the plant can
breathe and remain healthy.
In a small closet where there are only a few plants you
can probably [Image]
create enough air circulation just by opening the door to look
at
them. Although it is possible to grow healthy looking plants
in poorly
ventilated rooms, they would be larger and healthier if they
had a fresh
supply of air coming in. If you spend a lot of time in your growing
room,
your plants will grow better because they will be using the carbon
dioxide
that you are exhaling around them. It is sometimes quite difficult
to get a
fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room
is usually
hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in the
attic or
basement. In this case, a fan will create some movement of air.
It will also
stimulate your plants into growing a healthier and sturdier stalk.
Often
times in an indoor environment, the stems of plants fail to become
rigid
because they don't have to cope with elements of wind and rain.
To a degree,
though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its
energy into
producing leaves and resin instead of stems.
Dehumidifying Your Growing Room
Cannabis that grows in a hot, dry climate will have narrower
leaves than
cannabis grown in a humid atmosphere. The reason is that in a
dry atmosphere
the plant can respirate easier because the moisture on the leaves
evaporates
faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot evaporate
as fast.
Consequently, the leaves have to be broader with more surface
area in order
to expel the wastes that the plant put out. Since the broad leaves
produce
less resin per leaf than the narrow there will be more resin
in an ounce of
narrow leaves than in one ounce of broad leaves. There may be
more leaf mass
in the broader leafed plants, but most people are growing their
own for
quality rather than quantity.
Since the resin in the marijuana plant serves the purpose
of keeping the
leaves from drying out, there is more apt to be a lot of resin
produced in a
dry room than in a humid one. In the Sears catalog, dehumidifiers
cost
around $100.00 and are therefore a bit impractical for the "hobby
grower."
Watering
If you live near a clear mountain stream, you can skip
this bit on the
quality of water. Most of us are supplied water by the city and
some cities
add more chemicals to the water than others. They all add chlorine,
however,
in varying quantities. Humans over the years have learned to
either get rid
of it somehow or to live with it, but your marijuana plants won't
have time
to acquire a taste for it so you had better see that they don't
have to.
Chlorine will evaporate if you let the water stand for 24 hours
in an open
container. Letting the water stand for a day or two will serve
a dual
purpose: The water will come to room temperature during that
period of time
and you can avoid the nasty shock your plants suffer when you
drench them
with cold water. Always water with room temperature to lukewarm
water. If
your water has an excessive amount of chlorine in it, you may
want to get
some anti- chlorine drops at the local fish or pet store. The
most important
thing about watering is to do it thoroughly. You can water a
plant in a
three gallon container with as much as three quarts of water.
The idea is to
get the soil evenly moist all the way to the bottom of the pot.
If you use a
little water, even if you do it often, it seeps just a short
way down into
the soil and any roots below the moist soil will start to turn
upwards
toward the water. The second most important thing about watering
is to see
to it that the pot has good drainage. There should be some holes
in the
bottom so that any excess water will run out. If the pot won't
drain, the
excess water will accumulate in a pocket and rot the roots of
the plant or
simply make the soil sour or mildew. The soil, as we said earlier,
must
allow the water to drain evenly through it and must not become
hard or
packed. If you have made sure that the soil contains sand and
pearlite, you
shouldn't have drainage problems. To discover when to water,
feel the soil
with your finger. if you feel moisture in the soil, you can wait
a day or
two to water. The soil near the top of the pot is always drier
than the soil
further down. You can drown your plant just as easily as you
can let it get
too dry and it is more likely to survive a dry spell than it
is to survive a
torrential flood. Water the plants well when you water and don't
water them
at all when they don't need it.
Bugs
If you can avoid getting bugs in the first place you will
be much better
off. Once your plants become infested you will probably be fighting
bugs for
the rest of your plants' lives. To avoid bugs be sure to use
sterilized soil
and containers and don't bring other plants from outside into
your growing
room. If you have bets, ensure that they stay out of your growing
room,
since they can bring in pests on their fur. Examine your plants
regularly
for signs of insects, spots, holes in the leaves, browning of
the tips of
the leaves, and droopy branches. If you find that somehow in
spite of all
your precautions you have a plant room full of bugs, you'll have
to spray
your plants with some kind of insecticide. You'll want to use
something that
will kill the bugs and not you. Spider mites are probably the
bug that will
do the most damage to the marijuana plants. One of the reasons
is that they
are almost microscopic and very hard to spot. They are called
spider mites
because they leave a web-like substance clinging to the leaves.
They also
cause tiny little spots to appear on the leaves. Probably the
first thing
you'll notice, however, is that your plants look sick and depressed.
The
mites suck enzymes from the leaves and as a result the leaves
lose some of
their green color and glossiness. Sometimes the leaves look like
they have
some kid of fungus on them. The eggs are very tiny black dots.
You might be
wise to get a magnifying glass so that you can really scrutinize
your plants
closely. Be sure to examine the underside of the leaves too.
The mites will
often be found clinging to the underside as well as the top of
the leaves.
The sooner you start fighting the bugs, the easier it will be
to get rid of
them. For killing spider mites on marijuana, one of the best
insecticides if
"Fruit and Berry" spray made by Millers. Ortho also
produces several
insecticides that will kill mites. The ingredients to look for
are Kelthane
and Malatheon. Both of these poisons are lethal to humans and
pets as well
as bugs, but they both detoxify in about ten days so you can
safely smoke
the grass ten days after spraying. Fruit and Berry will only
kill the adult
mite, however, and you'll have to spray every four days for about
two weeks
to be sure that you have killed all the adults before they have
had a chance
to lay eggs. Keep a close watch on your plants because it only
takes one egg
laying adult to re- infest your plants and chances are that one
or two will
escape your barrage of insecticides. If you see little bugs flying
around
your plants, they are probably white flies. The adults are immune
to almost
all the commercial insecticides except Fruit and Berry which
will not kill
the eggs or larva. It is the larval stage of this insect that
does the most
damage. They suck out enzymes too, and kill your plants if they
go
unchecked. You will have to get on a spraying program just as
was explained
in the spider mite section.
An organic method of bug control is using soap suds. Put
Ivory flakes in
some lukewarm water and work up the suds into a lather. Then
put the suds
over the plant. The obvious disadvantage is it you don't rinse
the soap off
the plant you'll taste the soap when you smoke the leaves.
Pruning
We have found that pruning is not always necessary. The
reason one does it
in the first place is to encourage secondary growth and to allow
light to
reach the immature leaves. Some strands of grass just naturally
grow thick
and bushy and if they are not clipped the sap moves in an uninterrupted
flow
right to the top of the plant where it produces flowers that
are thick with
resin. On the other hand, if your plants appear tall and spindly
for their
age at three weeks, they probably require a little trimming to
ensure a nice
full leafy plant. At three weeks of age your plant should have
at least two
sets of branches or four leaf clusters and a top. To prune the
plant, simply
slice the top off just about the place where two branches oppose
each other.
Use a razor blade in a straight cut. If you want to, you can
root the top in
some water and when the roots appear, plant the top in moist
soil and it
should grow into another plant. If you are going to root the
top you should
cut the end again, this time with a diagonal cut so as to expose
more
surface to the water or rooting solution. The advantage to taking
cuttings
from your plant is that it produces more tops. The tops have
the resin, and
that's the name of the game. Every time you cut off a top, the
plant seeds
out two more top branches at the base of the existing branches.
Pruning also
encourages the branches underneath to grow faster than they normally
would
without the top having been cut.
Harvesting and Curing
Well, now that you've grown your marijuana, you will want
to cure it right
so that it smokes clean and won't bite. You can avoid that "homegrown"
taste
of chlorophyll that sometimes makes one's fillings taste like
they might be
dissolving. We know of several methods of curing the marijuana
so that it
will have a mild flavor and a mellow rather than harsh smoke.
First, pull the plant up roots and all and hang it upside
down for [Image]
24 hours. Then put each plant in a paper grocery bag with the
top
open for three or four days or until the leaves feel dry to the
touch. Now
strip the leaves off the stem and put them in a glass jar with
a lid. Don't
pack the leaves in tightly, you want air to reach all the leaves.
The main
danger in the curing process is mold. If the leaves are too damp
when you
put them into the jar, they will mold and since the mold will
destroy the
resins, mold will ruin your marijuana. you should check the jars
every day
by smelling them and if you smell an acrid aroma, take the weed
out of the
jar and spread it out on newspaper so that it can dry quickly.
Another
method is to uproot the plants and hang them upside down. You
get some
burlap bags damp and slip them up over the plants. Keep the bags
damp and
leave them in the sun for at least a week. Now put the plants
in a paper bag
for a few days until the weed is dry enough to smoke. Like many
fine things
in life, marijuana mellows out with age. The aging process tends
to remove
the chlorophyll taste.
Editor's Note and Important Warning:
This pamphlet was written about 8 years ago. While the
facts, figures, and
methods described here are still valid, an important note must
be added
concerning the purchasing of equipment and supplies. The information
age is
upon us and and increasing amount of data is being kept about
all of us
whether we realize it or not. With the war on drugs in full effect,
the
D.E.A. is using this information at every possible opportunity.
When you make a purchase with a credit card, every last
bit of information
regarding that purchase is filed away into a database, both at
the store and
with your credit card company. Not only the price, but the exact
date,
location, and items purchased are recorded and stored away. Many
stores and
credit card companies routinely sell their databases of customers
and
transactions to anybody who can afford it. The D.E.A can certainly
afford
it. After all, they're using your tax dollars.
The D.E.A. as well as other government agencies DO purchase
these databases
for their own uses. They feed them into their computers and the
computers
spit out a list of anybody with "suspicious" purchases.
Any purchases that
could be associated with drug production, use, or selling could
be flagged
for further investigation. These "suspicious" purchases
include unusual
chemicals, medical supplies such as syringes, lights and timers,
and even
potting soil and fertilizer.
The point is, if you are planning on purchasing supplies
to grow marijuana
don't take any chances. While the average home grower, who is
simply growing
enough for his own use, would probably never be flagged by the
computers,
you never know. If you are purchasing equipment or supplies,
pay cash! In
addition, many supermarkets and discount stores now have some
sort of
"Preferred Customer" cards. When you buy something,
regardless of how you
pay, you give them your card to scan and all of your purchases
are recorded.
They then send you some sort of coupon depending on what and
how much you
purchased each month. It sounds like a good deal, but you wind
up having all
of your purchases recorded and sold just like with the credit
cards. don't
use one of these cards when you are purchasing anything that
might be deemed
suspicious. For that matter, don't use them at all. They just
result in a
ton of junk mail and a lot of people knowing exactly what you
buy and when
you buy it.
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This page produced by the Sputnik Drug Information Zone. You
can contact us
at [Image] nepenth@media.internex.net.